Cuttlebone Casting
![]() Click to enlarge. |
This is a big cuttlebone, around 10 inches long, and is big enough to use for both sides of the cast. I cut it in half using a hack saw. |
![]() Click to enlarge. |
The cuttlebone has a soft side and a hard side. Here I have sanded the soft side flat using 80 grit sandpaper. The two flat sides fit tight together. |
Click to enlarge. |
These are the carving tools I use. The brush is to clean out the carved area, which also emphasizes the grain of the cuttlebone |
Click to enlarge. |
The top image shows the shank carved in, as well as the sprews and funnel. The brush sweeps away debris and deepens the grain. |
Click to enlarge. |
I tape my sides together, it only has to hold for a couple of seconds, tape can be found at any office supply store. You can see where I carved the other half of the funnel. If your cast is two sided, you need a way of registering the two halves of the cuttlebone. When the impression is initially made and the halves are pressed together with the original still inside, either cut notches or draw lines that can be aligned as you tape the sides together. Look into the cast and make sure there is no daylight seen between the two halves. If you can see between the halves it will leak, so more sanding is in order. |
Click to enlarge. |
ere the silver is about ready to pour. Continue heating the silver as the crucible is tilted and the silver gets near the lip of the crucible. Then dump it in. |
Click to enlarge. |
Here it is just after the pour. Now dunk it in water to quench. |
Click to enlarge. |
Here it is after the cast is opened. You can see where the silver started up the two sprews. I cleaned it up and decided the shank was too thick. Do-over. |
Click to enlarge. |
I decided to cast a small fish. Here it is carved up. I deepened the fins and tail before I cast it. |
Click to enlarge. |
The finished result with a jump ring added. It took a few minutes to clean up the sharp edges. |













